Kochen für Skeptiker

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Dinner / Guest Post

guest post von Hedda

Immer wenn wir Zeit in der Toskana verbringen, verabreden wir uns mit unseren Nachbarn Enzo und Gianfranco zum Essen. Einmal kochen sie und einmal kochen wir. Wenn wir dran sind, muss auf ausgesprochenen Wunsch etwas traditionell Deutsches auf den Tisch.

Gianfrancos Olivenhaine
Gianfranco und sein Bruder Enzo

Seit vielen Jahren das gleiche Ritual: “Was werdet ihr kochen?” – große Skepsis – die sich in vielen, vielen Jahren hartnäckig hält. Trotz begeisterten Genießens jedweder Mahlzeit, die wir zubereitet haben. Eine Herausforderung, jedes Mal. Der Toskaner verehrt seine Traditionen!

Diese Mal haben wir uns für ein Gulasch entschieden.

Wie jeder weiß, der sich mit Kochen beschäftigt, insbesondere aber Gianfranco und Enzo, ist der Schlüssel zu eine exzellenten Mahlzeit die Qualität der Zutaten. In diesem Fall natürlich das Fleisch, die Zwiebeln, das Olivenöl – und nicht zuletzt der Wein.

Also auf zum Metzger Mirco, der nach meiner Erwähnung von Gulasch sofort nach der Rindswade greift. Strahlend vor Metzgerglück.

Unser Gulasch

2 kg Rinds- oder Kalbswade, pariert und in mundgroße Stücke geschnitten
1,5 kg Zwiebeln (wir nehmen Zwiebeln der Sorte Tropea), gehackt
6-10 Knoblauchzehen, gehackt
Olivenöl (am besten von Gianfranco) zum Anbraten
Meersalz, schwarzen Pfeffer frisch gemahlen oder gemörsert
Edelsüßes Paprikapulver
Peperoncino als Pulver oder frisch gehackt
4 reife rote Paprika, in mundgroße Stücke geschnitten
400ml (1 Glas) Kalbs- oder Rindsfond
Rotwein nach Flüssigkeitsbedarf, das Fleisch sollte knapp bedeckt sein
400 ml Sahne

Fleisch portionsweise in einer großen Kasserolle scharf im Olivenöl anbraten, so dass sich Röststoffe entwickeln können. Zwiebel und Knoblauch separat anbraten- sonst wird es nix.
Zwiebeln und Knoblauch zum Fleisch geben, mit Salz, Pfeffer und Paprikapulver großzügig würzen, beherzt mit Rotwein ablöschen.

Geschnittene Paprika dazugeben, mit Fond auffüllen, Deckel drauf und bei kleiner Hitze behutsam schmoren. Immer wieder den Flüssigkeitspegel kontrollieren, eventuell Rotwein zugeben.

Nach ungefähr eineinhalb Stunden Garzeit sollten die Zwiebeln beginnen zu zerfallen.
Es braucht Geduld. Es könnte auch länger dauern. Nicht die Hitze erhöhen.

Blick aus dem Küchenfenster

Es ist Zeit für ein Glas Rotwein und ein bischen Muße.

Wenn Zwiebeln und Paprika allmählich zerfallen, ist es Zeit für das Würzen mit Peperoncino.
Es empfiehlt sich das Fleisch zu probieren, um den genauen Garzeitpunkt zu erwischen. Ganz zum Schluss die Sahne zugeben und nochmal richtig aufwallen lassen.

jetzt noch die Sahne…
ein Essen ohne Brot -undenkbar!
Guten Appetit






a Greek wedding + a Greek celebration cake

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Cakes + Cookies

In August we travelled to Greece to celebrate the love between Maria and Dimitris at their wedding. We spent the whole week basking in the sun, eating mountains of Greek salad and enjoying each others company at the Gulf of Corinth.

a Greek celebration cake
(original recipe from the bride’s great grandmother)

for the batter:

330g butter
50g sugar
6 eggs
grated orange peel
240g flour
175g hard wheat semolina
1 sachet baking powder
225ml milk
ca. 150-200g flaked almonds

for the syrup:

3 cups sugar
1 1/2 cups water
juice of 1/2 squeezed lemon

  1. Beat the egg whites
  2. Beat the yolks with sugar and orange peel
  3. Add butter and beat until the mixture turns white and creamy
  4. Mix in the flour, semolina, baking powder and milk
  5. Fold in the beaten egg white

Preheat oven at 180°C.

Pour the batter onto a slightly buttered baking tray. Sprinkle with flaked almonds. Bake for about 40 minutes until the cake turns golden.

Simmer the syrup for about 10 minutes and pour onto the ready-baked cake while it is still warm.

Teig-Götter

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Breakfast / Snacks

Teig-Götter

1 Tasse Weizen, Einkorn oder Kamut , wenn möglich frisch in der Steinmühle gemahlen
1 Tasse kaltes Wasser
1/2 Teelöffel Salz
Brotgewürz nach Belieben

Bereite aus 1 Tasse Vollkornweizen-, Kamut- oder Einkornmehl mit Salz, Brotgewürz und kaltem Wasser einen dickflüssigen Teig.

Heize den Ofen samt Backblech auf 200°C.

Gib den Teig löffelweise auf das heiße Blech und backe ihn 10-15 Minuten im Ofen.
Ohne Backofen gibt man den Teig in eine flache Pfanne, die man während des Backens zudeckt. Man kann auch das Waffeleisen nehmen; hier werden die Teig-Götter etwas weicher, weniger knusprig als im Ofen.

Variation: mit eingebackenen, kleingehackten frischen Kräutern oder Pepperoni

the secret rose garden

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Jams + Preserves / Uncategorized

On a cloudy day mid-June I was invited into my friend’s rose garden. She has a beautiful collection of historical roses growing in wild bushes and blooming only once a year. Their special charm lies in their wildness. They are not pruned into shapes or put into arrangements. The first thing you notice is the lovely scent wafting through the garden – especially on a warm summer day after the rain.

Their names are full of meaning: Mariage Parfait, Isphahan, Unschuld, La Belle Sultane, Great Maidens Blush, Empress Joséphine, Madame Hardy, Yolande d’Aragon only to name a few. My friend has a map that shows the name and location of each kind.

In the picture above you see the Rosa Mundi Gallica Versicolor, my friend’s most beloved rose.

Diptyque about their Rosa Mundi perfume. “A rose always blooms like every first love story. And all love is a world in itself. Hence Rosa Mundi”.


On my way out my friend generously gave me one of each rose in a huge bouquet. Even though for herself she never cuts them for the vase.

rose petal jelly

petals from 8-10 organically grown fragrant roses
300ml dry white or red wine
200ml water
500g preserving sugar (1 plus 1)
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon rosewater

Bring the water to a boil in a medium saucepan, remove from heat, add the petals, cover and let steep for at least 30 minutes.
Strain liquid into a clean saucepan, discard petals. Let cool.

Add sugar and lemon juice. Bring mixture to a boil, boil for 4 minutes. Remove from heat, add rosewater. Pour into sterilized jars and let cool.

Quark cheesecake without crust

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Cakes + Cookies

Quark cheese cake without crust

1 kg Quark
2/3 cups sugar
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
4 large eggs
3 tablespoons cornstarch (Maizena)
100g butter (= 8 tablespoons) , melted and cooled
2 tablespoons flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 lemon, grated peel and juice

Preheat the oven to 190°C and put the oven rack in the lower third of the oven. Butter the bottom and the sides of the baking form and sprinkle in flour to lightly coat the form.

In a large bowl, beat together the Quark, sugar, vanilla, eggs, cornstarch, butter, flour, baking powder, lemon peel and juice until the batter is creamy.

Pour the batter into the prepared form. Bake for 45 minutes.

Remove the cake from the oven and place the form on a cooling rack. The cake will be losing its height – that’s normal. Let the cake cool down completely before removing the sides of the form.

Enjoy with with a dollop of whipped cream.

DIY artist charcoal

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DIY

Guest post by Vik

Currently gifted with a lot of free time, we got my old art box out, filled with all sorts of chalks, inks, crayons and water colours. I used my french charcoal sticks for some sketches, and fully enamoured with the smooth texture and expressive line, decided that it’s time to make our own locally grown artist charcoal.

Preparation

  1. Collect fresh branches/twigs. Willow and wine are classically used, but we also successfully tried beech and alder tree. The branches should be at least 8mm thick. (The willow tips within our reach were definitely too thin! They can be used but are a bit fragile.)
  2. Cut the sticks to your desired length, and peel the bark off. We did this step while walking and collected the sticks in our pockets, so you will have to imagine how that looks like. The peeling was easy because the trees were so juicy.

Pictured below:
a) willow bark we peeled off; b) my french store bought charcoal next to our alder sticks; c) beech, alder, willow, and elder; d) our own charcoal.

The Process

  1. Find a metal box that you can seal. We found a truffle box, also paint cans are suitable. It should be sealed well, but not air tight, in that case simply make a little hole in your container.
  2. Build a fire! The box will stay in the fire for at least 1,5h.
  3. Put the sticks in the box, close it well, and chuck it in the fire.
  4. Set a timer, and wait. Carefully turn the box once or twice (at least that’s what we did).
  5. BE CAREFUL: the box might have build up pressure inside, and it will be extremely hot. The metal was glowing red! Keep that in mind when moving it, use long sticks to handle it, and gently move it away from the fire.
  6. Let it cool down completely, before carefully opening it to check if the sticks have charred fully. If they aren’t all the way black, just put them back in the container and back in the fire for a while longer.

Et voilà!

To try out the charcoal I just drew some lines. It’s truly amazing how each stick has it’s own softness and texture: you can see some hard lines and some soft fat, deeply black ones.

Now get yourself some quality paper, and start creating! My advice would be to throw your logical brain out and with it all expectation and control, and just have fun exploring the medium.

What we learned for the next time: Different trees all give great results. Super thin sticks are too fragile. It’s easy, if you have a metal box and a safe fire pit!

freestyle lobster soup

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Soups

Lobster in the pantry? Dinner for three? Assuming you have some booze left from the quarantine and some vegetables I recommend you take another step into uncertainty with this freestyle lobster soup. The recipe came to me by way of a seven line Whatsapp message with absolutely no quantities. We will pass on the instructions to you as we received them. The result was marvelous!

Boil the lobster, remove the meat from the claws and the tail, put it aside and fry the rest of the lobster (yes, the shell!) in olive oil along with diced carrots, shallots, tomato and celery. Drench in Cognac and flame. Extinguish the flames with Pernod (or if you don’t have with Pastis). Add white wine and seafood stock, letting it boil for a while to absorb all flavours.
Strain through a musselin cloth and add Sherry or Cognac to taste. To finish, add cream, salt, pepper and the lobster meat. Let it come to a boil one last time and that’s it!

Garnish with dill, serve with the rest of the white wine and enjoy! Works well with bread, if you haven’t traded it for toilet roll already.

wild herbs series, part I

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Allgemein

A hearty dose of herbal remedies that you can conjure with ingredients found on your walks or even in your garden. They are easy enough to recognize but for beginners I recommend buying a book highlighting the similar but toxic friends.

Chickweed (Vogelmiere)
Stellaria Media

Chickweed

Edible parts: leaves, stems, buds and blossoms

Contents: calcium, magnesium, potassium, iron, B-vitamins, phosphorus, zinc, copper, silicic acid, vitamins A and C, essential oils, tannins and plant-based proteins

Effects : cooling, anti-inflammatory, blood-cleansing, hemostatic, diuretic, digestive and analgesic

Use:
pure in salads, dips or crostini
juiced with apple
blended in smoothies
dried as a metabolism-enhancing tea

_____________

Nettle (Brennnessel)
Urtica Dioica

Nettle

Edible parts: leaves, seeds, buds

Contents: flavonoids, magnesium, potassium, iron, silicic acid, vitamin A, C and E, plant-based proteins
In the seeds: 30% oils, especially linoleic acid and vitamin E

Effects: diuretic, blood-cleansing and detoxing, anti-inflammatory, digestive, anti-rheumatic, anti-diabetic, tonic

Use:
leaves: fresh or dried for tea
blanched similar to spinach, raw in salads, juices and smoothies
seeds: dried or roasted as a condiment

_____________

Dandelion (Löwenzahn)
Taraxacum Officinale

Dandelion

Edible parts: leaves, stems (the milk is not toxic), blossoms and roots

Contents: bitter substances, potassium, iron, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, vitamins A, C, B2 and flavonoids.

Effects: diuretic, detoxing, blood-building, anti-inflammatory, wound healing
The bitter substances have a beneficial effect on the stomach, intestines, pancreas, liver, gall bladder and kidneys.

Use:
juiced or blended in a smoothie
in salads and dips
dried (leaves and roots) for tea
flowers: in salads, or fried in batter

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Violet (Veilchen)
Viola Odorata

Violet

Edible parts: blossoms and buds, leaves, roots

Contents:
leaves: saponins, flavonoids, alkaloids, bitter substances
blossoms: essential oils, natural blue colouring Cyamin

Effects: stress relieving scent

Use:
decoration for desserts and salads, aroma in sugar and vinegar

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Goosegrass (Klettenlabkraut)
Gallium Aparine

Goosegrass

Edible parts: leaves and shoots

Contents: glycosides, alkaloids, tannins and essential oils

Effects: diuretic, stimulates lymph flow, detoxing. In Chinese Medicine it’s assigned to liver, gall and bladder

Use:
juiced in drinks and soups
blended in smoothies
in scrambled eggs, vegetables, cottage cheese, Quark
fresh or dried for tea

_____________

Ground Elder (Giersch)
Aegopodium Podagraria

Ground Elder

Edible parts: leaves, blossoms and fruits

Contents: potassium, magnesium, calcium, manganese, zinc, copper, vitamins A and C, plant based proteins, flavonoids, resin and essential oil

Effects: diuretic, anti-inflammatory, spasmolytic, de-acidifying

Use:
leaves and blossoms: raw as salad, blanched like spinach, juiced or blended in smoothies
fruits: fresh or dried as a condiment

spring 2020 book list

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Uncategorized

Before the coffee gets cold
Toshikazu Kawaguchi

Essbare Wildpflanzen
Steffen Guido Fleischhauer
Jürgen Guthmann
Roland Spiegelberger

The Inner Game of Music
Barry Green

Veg in One Bed
Huw Richards

Monsieur Vuong
Das Kochbuch

Climate – A New Story
Charles Eisenstein

Sacred Economics
Charles Eisenstein

The More Beautiful World Our Hearts Know Is Possible
Charles Eisenstein

On Earth We’re Briefly Gorgeous
Ocean Vuong

Black Box Thinking
Matthew Syed

frittata of mung beans, spinach and coriander

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Lunch / Snacks

frittata of mung beans, spinach and coriander

1 cup green mung beans, soaked over night
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons plain yoghurt
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
2 tablespoons coriander, chopped
2 cups spinach, chopped
1 teaspoon sattvic spice mix (recipe below)
1/2 teaspoon salt

Ghee or coconut oil and 1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds for frying.

Drain and rinse the mung beans. Using a high-speed blender pulse to purée the beans, lemon juice and yoghurt. Transfer the mung bean mixture to a bowl. Combine all other ingredients with the ground mung beans. the mixture should be the consistency of a thick pancake batter. If it’s too thick you may add some water.

In a frying pan warm some ghee or coconut oil on medium heat. Sauté the mustard seeds until they pop. Pour the mung bean mixture over the ghee and spread evenly.
Cover and cook over medium heat until the sides begin to brown, 3-6 minutes. Flip the frittata by using a plate (transfer to the plate, let it glide back into the pan) or two large spoons or spatulas. Cover and cook 10 minutes more until golden brown.

Transfer to a serving platter and cut into bite-size pieces. Serve with yoghurt or a fresh salad.

sattvic spice mix

This mix is especially nice in dals and soups.
In Ayurveda SATTVA feels like : content, restful, peaceful, steady, satisfied, fulfilled.

1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons ground ginger
1 tablespoon ground turmeric
1/4 teaspoon hing powder (asafoetida)

Roast the coriander, cumin and fennel seeds in a frying pan over medium heat. Stir constantly until you can smell them. Cool and then grind these spices together with the salt, ginger, turmeric and asafoetida to a uniform powder.